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China poblana (or, ''Chinese Pueblan'') is considered the ''traditional style of dress'' of women in the Mexican Republic, although in reality it only belonged to some urban zones in the middle and southeast of the country, before its disappearance in the second half of the 19th century. == Fashion design of the ''china dress'' == The fashion design of the ''china poblana dress'' is attributed to Catarina de San Juan, although it certainly incorporates elements from the diverse cultures that were mixed in New Spain during three centuries of Spanish rule. According to descriptions written in the 19th century, the era in which the dress was very popular in various cities in the middle and southeast of Mexico, ''china'' outfit is made up of the following garments: *A white blouse, with fringing and embroiderywork of silk and beads, in geometric and floral designs in bright colors. The blouse was sufficiently low-cut to allow part of the neck and the bosom to be seen,〔Rivera, José María (1997 ()): "La china". En Frías y Soto, Hilarión ''et al.'': ''Los mexicanos pintados por sí mismos''. Edited by Rosa Beltrán. Consejo Nacional para la Cultura y las Artes, México, p. 36.〕 which scandalized to no end the "proper" women of nineteenth century Mexican society. *A skirt called ''castor'' (or, "beaver"), named after the material it was made from. According to some historians, ''castor'' was used by well-heeled ladies of the household to make the underskirts of their indigenous maids.〔("El jarabe tapatío" ), from the website of the ''Mexican Folkloric Dance Company of Chicago'', Retrieved on January 10, 2007.〕 The ''castor'' skirt was decorated with sequins and ''camarones'' (literally, ''shrimp'') that formed geometric and floral shapes.〔("La china poblana" ), in ''México Desconocido''. Retrieved on January 10, 2007.〕 Folkloric dance groups have revived a version that has the coat of arms of Mexico embroidered with sequins, beads, and bugles (a type of bead). *A white slip with ''enchilada stitching'',〔Rivera, José María, ''ibid.'', p. 36〕 that is to say with the lower hem criss-crossed with zig-zagged lacework. The slip of a ''china poblana'' would peek out under the ''castor'' skirt, and served to keep the form of a woman attired in the ''china'' dress from showing in silhouette. *A ''loop'' that held up the ''castor'' and the slip to the waist of the woman who wore it. The loop may or may not have been adorned with emroidery, or woven in brocade-style. *A shawl, sometimes made fine with silk, or in most cases with bobbles. The shawl is a very common garment in Mexico, even today. Women use it to cover themselves from the cold, but it was also used to carry babies or any other thing that was difficult to carry barehanded due to size and weight. The ''bobble shawl'', which was most commonly used in ''china'' dresses, was woven with threads of blue and white color, and originated in the Otomí town of Santa María del Río (San Luis Potosí).〔("Los rebozos de Santa María del Río" ), in ''México Desconocido'', Retrieved on January 10, 2007.〕 *In some instances, the ''china'' was accompanied with a scarf or kerchief of silk to hide any cleavage that might peek out of the blouse. Of these scarves, José María Rivera wrote that "these regularly come home on Sunday only to return to the pawn shop on Monday or Tuesday".〔 *As footwear, 19th century author Manuel Payno pointed out that despite her financial lackings, a ''china''-dress woman would use satin shoes embroidered with silk thread.〔Payno, Manuel (1997 ()): "El coloquio. El lépero. La china.", In: Monsiváis, Carlos (Editor): ''A ustedes les consta. Antología de la crónica en México.'' Era, México, p. 85〕 This type of foowear appears in some nineteenth century Mexican texts as an indicator that the wearer was a "merry woman".〔''Cfr.'' De Cuéllar, José Tomás (1996): ''Baile y cochino''. Consejo Nacional para la Cultura y las Artes, México, p. 28〕 Furthermore, the ''china'' wearer completed the outfit with beads and jewels that adorned her ears, her cleavage, and her hands.〔Vázquez Mantecón, María del Carmen (2000): "La ''china mexicana'', mejor conocida como ''china poblana''". In: ''Anales del Instituto de Investigaciones Estéticas de la Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México'', issue 77, p. 128.〕 抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア（Wikipedia）』 ■ウィキペディアで「China poblana」の詳細全文を読む スポンサード リンク
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